Get to know the heart of India – Madhya Pradesh – through trails of rustling sal, the call of langurs, and sacred groves known to forest-dwelling communities for generations. This is a holiday that includes palaces, temples, and forts; tigers, wildlife and vast undulating hills.
Tucked away in Central India, Madhya Pradesh holds a quiet kind of grandeur — in its ancient hills, dense forests, and towns built from stone. This journey moves gently through the state’s lesser-known corners: from the cool, forested plateaus of Pachmarhi to tribal hamlets; from the teak jungles of Panna to the riverine towns of Orchha and Gwalior, where sandstone forts rise above the plains.
You’ll walk through sal forests, trace old trails in tiger country, and stay in simple, welcoming villages or boutique heritage stays dripping with charm. This is a rare and deeply Indian journey that is co-owned and organised by the long-time residents of this land.
The undiscovered gems that comprise the state of Madhya Pradesh never cease to astound. This is the heart of India that inspired Rudyard Kipling to write the much loved Jungle Book. Jungle and wildlife sanctuaries, rural, tribal villages are criss crossed by great rivers and bejewelled with some of the greatest medieval architecture of India and particularly so in this journey of exploration from the centre of this vast state to its north-eastern part.
Arrive in Delhi, stay overnight in the guesthouse. There is so much to see in Delhi – choose to visit Humayan’s Tomb, the Lotus Temple, or Akshardham, explore the Red Fort or shop in Dilli Haat. An evening transfer takes you to New Delhi station to catch the night train to central Madhya Pradesh at Itarsi.
A short transfer on arrival takes you to Pachmarhi and the comfortable Champak Bungalow in time for breakfast. Pachmarhi is part of the Satpura Biosphere, specifically within its buffer zone, and shares flora, fauna, and ecosystem dynamics with the denser forests of Satpura and Bori. Set high in the Satpura hills, Pachmarhi’s forests are home to sal and teak trees, rare mountain plants, and wildlife like langurs and giant squirrels, all thriving among ancient rock shelters and caves.
A couple of hours by road from Pachmarhi and you will be welcomed by your village host in Sabarvani. Settle into your village guesthouse, your home for three nights in this traditional village. Take a guided walk, through the buffer zone of Satpura National Park, accompanied by a naturalist and enjoy sumptuous picnic lunches. In the village, experience a bullock cart ride, visit the farms, discuss crops and agriculture with the villagers, enjoy a cooking lesson, or simply relax.
An early morning transfer to Pipariya station for a 6-hour day train journey from the rolling farmland and forests of central Madhya Pradesh to its exciting east. On arrival at Satna station, you will be transferred to a village guesthouse for the next three nights.
Your stay will either be in the village of Janwaar or Pataan, depending on availability. Explore the local farms by cycle and wander through guava trees, enjoy delicious local dishes, see local bamboo and ceramic handicrafts, and enjoy village life.
The nearby Khajuraho is the finest example of medieval temples in India. There are 25 of them, with the earliest dating from the 11th century and the Chandela dynasty (guided visit included).
Also visit the wonderful Panna National Park and Tiger Sanctuary, with its combination of savannah and jungle landscape criss-crossed by the majestic Ken river (guided visit included). Your guide will help you spot deer, flying squirrel, wild boar or jackal, and point out pugmarks and signs of the elusive tiger. Members of our team had the privilege of a tiger sighting in November 2022.
You leave Pataan/Janwaar by a road transfer (3 hours) to Orchha. A wonderful place to break your journey, Orchha is a World Heritage Site with its beautiful fort, palace, and temple dating from the Bundela dynasty in the 16th century.
Today, with a farewell to village life, you continue your road journey (3 1/2 hrs) to Gwalior and a stay in the lovely Krishnayan Haveli, an oasis of relaxed calm and hospitality in the city centre. From this 19th century manor house you can step straight into the bustling town streets. Take the short walk to the Maharaj Bada, which some say is the most beautiful square in Asia – it would not be out of place in an Italian city. However, dominating the town, on its plateau above, is the great Gwalior Fort. This Rajput fort dates from the 15th century and encompasses two palaces.
Take the morning train back to Delhi (3 1/2 hrs). Spend another night here before flying out.
Dates
Party of 2/3
Party of 4+
Winter
1 Jan 2026 – 20 Feb 2026
£1,030
£677
Winter
1 Nov 2026 – 30 Nov 2026
£1,040
£684
*All prices are per guest. Prices vary by season and reduce with larger group sizes due to shared logistics and accommodation.
Winter
1 Jan 2025 – 20 Feb 2026
Party of 2–3: £1,030
Party of 4+: £677
1 Nov 2026 – 30 Nov 2026
Party of 2–3: £1,040
Party of 4+: £684
In Delhi, guests will stay in charming boutique accommodations that reflect the city’s mix of heritage and modernity. Nestled in quiet, leafy neighborhoods, these stays offer a peaceful retreat from the capital’s bustle while keeping you close to its historic and cultural landmarks. Each property is thoughtfully designed—with elegant, old-world architecture, warm hospitality, and home-cooked meals that give a taste of Delhi’s rich culinary traditions. Whether in a restored colonial bungalow or a cozy family-run guesthouse, guests will experience the comfort and character of authentic Delhi living.
Champak bungalow is a fine example of Raj-era architecture, in the lovely Pachmarhi hill station. Set beside tranquil Champak Lake, it is a charming heritage bungalow-turned-retreat managed by the Madhya Pradesh Tourism Corporation. Dating back to British colonial days (formerly known as Lansdowne House), it blends vintage architecture with today’s comforts—including spacious garden-facing rooms, a pool, and lush landscaped lawns.
In Gwalior your stay in Madhya Pradesh is rounded off in the Krishnayan Haveli, a lovely 19th century manor house, a calm setting in the city centre. This is an elegant century-old haveli in the heart of Gwalior, quietly tucked behind the bustle of Phalka Bazar. Built in the 1920s using lime, pink sand, and sugar, its graceful arches, stone pillars, and high ceilings preserve the princely ambience of its Scindia-era origins. The property offers seven thoughtfully furnished rooms with antique Burma teak furniture, brass heirlooms, and family portraits—paired with modern comforts like spacious bathrooms, Wi‑Fi, and personalised service.
In Madhya Pradesh the village communities have organised their hospitality for guests a little differently. With assistance with funding from the state government and technical help from Village Ways, the comfortable guesthouses created are owned by one or two families with the hospitality for your stay provided from across the village community. All join in to make your stay memorable. On this holiday we have chosen four rather special villages: Sabarvani, Janwaar, Pataan and Ladpurakhas. All are tribal in origin, have a great affinity with nature and will offer you a real insight into village and farming life. From the centre of this great state to its north-eastern corner there is so much to discover.
The region has a tropical climate with hot, dry summers, a monsoon season and a mild winter. The best time for wildlife spotting is between February and April, although each season has its own charm.
Summer: March – May
This is the hot, dry season when the forests begin to lose their leaves. Although the forests do not look at their finest during this period, the lack of dense foliage means there is greater opportunity to see wildlife. During March the peak temperatures begin to rise from around 20°C to 25°C. Evenings are warm and pleasant. April and May are the hottest months with peak temperates in May reaching around 40°C.
Monsoon: June – October
The monsoon season comes as a relief after the heat of May. Days are warm, with temperatures of 20 – 30°C, and there is heavy rainfall.
Winter: November – February
This season is pleasant and dry, with temperatures dropping from 25 °C to 10 °C in December and January and rising again in February. The forests are lush after the monsoon rains.