MAKING MEANINGFUL CONNECTIONS
HILLS AND VALLEYS OF UTTARAKHAND
Wonderful walking in north India
Wonderful walking in north India
Almost within touching distance of great Himalayan summits, explore India’s small, traditional villages in the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary and the Saryu and Pindar Valleys. With wonderful walking, abundant wildlife a warm hospitality, we believe these special places offer the best walking holidays in north India.
The Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary lies in the Himalayan foothills at the centre of the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand State in north India, a night train north-east from Delhi and a day’s drive into hills. It lies around 20 km from the district capital of Almora. Binsar comprises a sequence of steep wooded and terraced hills with picturesque villages clinging to their sides. Binsar is overlooked by the great snow-capped, majestic peaks of Nanda Devi, Trisul and Panchachuli.
Around 70km further into the middle Himalaya region, in the Bageshwar district of Uttarakhand, lie the Saryu and Pindar valleys, where charming, traditional communities spread along the valley towards nearby Tibet. Beyond the villages and terraced fields there are valleys, waterfalls and snow-covered peaks.
All of our trips can be tailored to meet your needs – or a new itinerary can be planned just for you. Whether you want a weekend break away from India’s busy city life, or are travelling from abroad for a longer stay, we can create a holiday to delight. Choose to rest and relax, to immerse yourself in village life, or to hike to the high points of the area.
The Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary is a beautiful mountain nature reserve clad in forests of oak, pine and rhododendron, with some of the most unspoilt landscapes of India, set against the awesome backdrop of the mighty Himalayan peaks. An unending sequence of pine-clad and terraced hills with tiny villages and small temples clinging to their sides, Binsar sits in the Himalayan foothills at an altitude of 1,500 to 2,500 m.
The walking in Binsar is flexible and open to all; most paths are even and slopes are gentle, with some steeper gradients. The terrain should suit anyone who enjoys going for day walks at home. You walk along forest trails to reach broad cultivated terraces as you near each village.
This is a wonderful place to discover wildlife. The Binsar Sanctuary is home to deer, wild boar, porcupine, pine martens, langur monkeys and several breeding pairs of leopard, while birds include various species of woodpecker, eagles and vultures.
There is such a sense of space here, close up to Tibet, with mountains on a grand scale and great walking in an alpine-like landscape. The Saryu villages are spread out along the gentler middle slopes of the upper valley, surrounded by terraced fields, waterfalls, rhododendron forest and open pastures. Neighbouring the Saryu Valley is the astounding Pindar Valley, whose river draws its water from the great Pindari Glacier. The high Himalaya massif rises up beyond the Pindar River, allowing unrivalled views of the snow-capped peaks of Trisul, Nanda Devi, Nanda Kot and the Pindari glacier from Dhurr and the Chiltha-Jaikuni ridge.
Walking in the Saryu and Pindar valleys is at altitudes of 2000 – 3150m and is tougher than in Binsar, with steeper ascents and descents but there are plenty of places to rest and to savour the magnificent views or to pause for some bird watching. A good level of fitness is required – the terrain should suit anyone who enjoys fairly energetic walks at home.
Dalar (1835m)
Surrounded by pine forest and affording beautiful views of Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri, Kamet and Trishul peaks from the upper parts of the village, Dalar is divided into two hamlets: Valli (“This Side”) Dalar and Palli (“That Side”) Dalar. It is a relatively thriving village with a school and temple. The village homestay, Minivet House, looks out over the valley, with views of high Himalayan peaks in the distance.
Risal (1650m)
The secluded village is set on the slopes above a deep valley and is surrounded by beautiful mixed forest of oak, pine and rhododendron, with vegetables and crops growing in the village. Its little paths afford glimpses of wooded hills and green pastures. Bulbul House homestay is neatly located on a terrace near the main village.
Satri (1584m)
Satri village is remote and secluded, located on a high ridge surrounded by a glorious mountain landscapes, with uninterrupted views to the peaks. The village houses form a small, beautiful series of dwellings. Just four families now live in Satri. You’ll be given a very special welcome here in Pipit House.
Kathdhara (1900m)
Myna House guesthouse nestles amidst terraced fields in the lower part of Kathdara. Enjoy the rhythms of traditional rural life in the foothills in this vibrant farming community. With a name meaning wood (kath) and stream (dhara), this beautiful village boasts extensive terraced fields, orchards and well maintained farms, with views over hills and a wide valley, and glimpses of the awe-inspiring Panchachulli range beyond. The villagers are keen to show guests their farms and let them help with field activities. They have also created a small farming museum.
Gonap (1900m)
The farmhouses of Gonap are set on a hillside among terraced fields and vegetable gardens, with wonderful open views backed by richly forested slopes.
Supi Village (2,100m)
This picturesque village is surrounded by extensive, broad terraced fields. As with all villages in the area, Supi is split into a collection of hamlets: Talai and Talla Supi, and Malla Supi, where the guesthouse is located. The buildings are almost entirely of traditional design: impressive joint family terraced houses (berklays), with whitewashed walls, stone roofs and intricately carved door surrounds. It is delightful just to wander through the village to the tinkling of the cowbells and the chatter of the women in the fields. From upper Supi there are wonderful panoramas – the buildings of the village are extended like embracing arms around the tidy, broad terraced fields, as if these are the gardens of the village. Beyond there are valleys, waterfalls and the snow-covered peak of Van Kothiya & Nanda Kot.
Jhuni Village (2,000m)
This is the remotest village, the last settlement before the main Himalayan ranges and the last village in India towards Tibet. It lies below a towering mountain ridge topped by the distinctively pointed summit of Pokwal. The Saryu River tumbles down its course in the narrow valley, some 500m below the village. Jhuni includes two hamlets: the guesthouse, with three en-suite bedrooms, is in Gwara hamlet, just below the school and a 20 minute walk from the main village.
Khal Jhuni Village (2,300m)
Khal Jhuni is a compact little village nestling in the bowl of an upper valley. It is a small trading centre, straddling the main trails from Baichhem (near the Saryu river), Supi, Jhuni and Khati. The Village Ways guesthouse is in the middle of the village, by the narrow main ‘street’ (footpath), along which all village life passes, including women with large head-loads of firewood, children playing cricket and mules with tinkling bells.
Jaikuni Bhugiyal Camp (3,000m)
This is not actually a village but a bhugiyal, a grassy meadow on a high ridge that separates the Saryu and Pindar valleys. Shepherds bring goats and sheep here in summer for the grazing. Jaikuni Bhugiyal provides a stunning balcony view of the Himalayas:on a clear day, there are magnificent views across to the Sunderdhunga and Pindari glaciers, Nanda Devi, Nanda Kot and even to the five peaks of Panchachulli – if you reach out your hand, they are almost within grasp! The community of Supi, with the aid of Village Ways, established the tented camp in 2009, to accommodate guests during the autumn and spring seasons (dismantling it during the monsoon grazing season, and again during the snowy mid-winter). It is a real privilege to be able to stay here.
Karmi Village (1,800m)
Karmi lies in a separate sub-catchment of the Saryu valley, on the edge of the Pindar valley. The secluded horse-shoe shaped valley slopes down towards Kapkot, from the peak of Karmi Chiltha. It is an active village, with terraced farmland and a chicken farm. The guesthouse (Roop Kund House) is a converted traditional building, lying in the upper part of Karmi, overlooking the main village and valley below.
Dhurr Village (2,100m)
The village is spread out at the foot of the steep, Deodar-forested hillside below Dhakuri, and above the gushing Pindar river. Neatly terraced fields extend from the forest down towards the river. This is a wonderful village to relax in; on clear days there are stunning views of the high, snow-capped peaks, and views up the valley towards Khati village. There are two guesthouses: Kafni House lies on the upper fringes of the village and Pindari House is located in the main lower hamlet.
Holidays to the Binsar villages and to the neighbouring Saryu and Pindar Valley typically start and end with a night at Khali Estate Hotel, giving guests a wonderful experience.
Khali Estate is a small family-run hotel with picturesque stone rondavel cabins set amongst the pine trees, clustered around the British Raj style house that was built by General Sir Henry Ramsay. You can truly relax at Khali – it is peaceful (no TV), with good vegetarian food, attentive service and wonderful views across Binsar. The perfect base to explore the mountain paths and local villages.